Assisi

Assisi, 27 km East of Perugia. A perfect Umbrian hill town, one of Italy’s top sites, says my guide book. Make sure to book accommodation way ahead, even in Fall, it continues.

Yes, Assisi offers wonderful vistas and beautiful views of mountains and valley patchworks of fields and olive groves.

But it is also terribly commercially touristy. Tourists, especially Americans, throng the place, even in winter. Maybe not ‘’especially’’ Americans, but they sure have a way to make their presence felt or heard.

Tourists are curious to see the birthplace of Saint Francis, Italy’s patron saint and founder of one the world’s largest monastic orders.

Everywhere I went, every inch of the piazzas in the town, has a souvenir shop, selling figurines of monks, cards printed with St Francis’ ‘’Prayer for all’’ and the ‘’Tau’’ cross in all forms, sizes, materials and colours. Some shops even sold, among the usual souvenirs, fashionable gypsy-style cotton garments made in India, at a criminal price.

The first shop I visited was a little leather-goods shop. I was attracted by the simplicity of the shop, and also by the bags on display.

It turned out that it was the work shop of ‘’Modi’’ leather wear, handmade by Mr Mauro Cenci. I could see he was a one-man-show, standing behind his sewing machine and tools and entertaining a loud bunch of American girls.

They were excitedly ordering in bulk custom-made leather covers for their Bibles. They spent a lot of time debating about the colour and placement of Assisi’s famous ‘’Tau’’ cross on the cover. Some have obviously returned to the shop to order more. And many have even brought their Bibles along to ensure the size fits.

I wonder how often they ever read their Bibles, or if they do read them everyday, do they really need leather, hand/custom-made-in-Assisi covers with a special ‘’Tau’’ cross?

But who am I to judge and comment on such things? Didn’t I also step into the shop? No, I am not interested in any crosses. I am a lot more practical.

I had been looking for a sling bag of that particular colour and size – very handy for office wear and easy to match. I have never heard of Modi brand and don’t really care. Friends back home tell me I should be looking for the Prada factory outlet or Gucci shop in Italy – land of Prada and Gucci. I just want a well made, long lasting, brown bag that can carry all my stuff while going to the office daily.

With my purchase done, I wandered along the streets admiring the pretty cakes and desserts on display at the crowded bakeries. Just looking at them makes me really happy. Though I was not hungry, I was tempted to buy at least a small (and expensive) piece to try. My conclusion – best to just feast with the eyes and not with the mouth, as they looked pretty rather than tasted good.

The Basilica di San Francesco, a grandiose cathedral that sits on the rock of the mountainside, is considered the highlight of Assisi.

I have my own highlights. For me, the eerie image of the cold, misty, foggy, deserted Rocca Maggiore will always stay in my mind when Assisi is mentioned.

It was about 5 pm but it was pitch dark and excruciatingly cold with the strong wind splitting every inch of my skin, piercing into the quick of my fingers and stinging every little bone in my body. But I wanted to see something special, other than souvenir shops and loud tourist groups.

So I braved the howling wind and darkness and with crackling knees, climbed up the spooky steps and hills of this fortress. I did not get to the very top, but enough to snap a picture.

With that, I walked briskly, shivering and shuddering in the relentless and angry winds, to the bus stop to wait for the bus back to Perugia.